Needlework 101

A BRIEF HISTORY OF NEEDLEWORK

Needlework is one of humanity's oldest artistic traditions, with evidence of decorative stitching dating back more than 20,000 years. Across cultures and centuries, embroider, weaving and counted-thread techniques have been used not only to embellish clothing and household textiles, but also to record history, express identity, and showcase extraordinary craftsmanship. 

One of the most famous examples is the Bayeux Tapestry, an 11th-century embroidered materpiece that chronicles the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. Nearly 230 feet long, it demonstrates how thread has long been used to tell stories that endure centuries. Many refer to the Bayeux Tapestry as an early graphic novel. 

That tradition continues today. Contemporary textile artists create museum-quality works that challenge our perception of the medium, while major fashion houses such as Dior, Chanel, and Alexander McQueen relay on master embroiderers to produce breathtaking couture. 

Beyond embroidery there are many contemporary artists using needlepoint and cross stitch in there creations. In terms of art pieces using needlepoint, tapestry and counted cross techniques is Elaine Reichek. Her work examines history, literature, and gender. Her work has been collected by MoMa, the Whitney, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art. She has done more than anyone to convince the contemporary art world that counted thread creations can be art. 

TYPES OF NEEDLEWORK

Cross Stitch is one of the most accessible forms of counted needlework, created by stitching small X-shaped stitches on an evenly woven fabric. Sometimes half stitches and backing stitching is also included in a design but primarily it is crossed stitch by crossed stitch. Using a color chart as a guide, each stitch gradually forms a detailed image, making it a relaxing and rewarding craft for beginners and experienced stitchers alike. 

Needlepoint is a form of canvas embroidery worked on an evenweave canvas using a variety of decorative stitches. While the classic tent stitch is most common, needlepoint offers endless opportunities for texture, dimension, and artistic expression, resulting in durable, heirloom-quality pieces.

Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric with thread and needle using an extensive variety of stitches. Unlike counted techniques, embroidery is often stitched on plain fabric and allows for greater freedom in creating flowing lines, intricate details, and richly textured designs. 

FABRICS

Cross Stitch is done on Aida fabric. Aida fabric is a 100% cotton material with an open, open-weave. The fabric has a grid pattern of visible squares with holes for easy counting. All Aida comes in different count sizes meaning the number of squares per inch. Common count sizes are 14 count through 32 count. The smaller the count size the easier it is to count stitches. 32 count is very small and difficult. The various count sizes result in larger finished pieces (14 count) and scaling down based on more stitches per inch. 

Needlepoint is done primarily on evenweave canvas. Evenweave has an even, tight weave without distinct squares. Most commonly available are 28 and 32 count, but these counts represent threads per inch, not stitches. The evenweave is much more flexible for applying various stitches to designs. Patterns in cross stitch are based on crossed stitches. In needlepoint stitches vary wildly and need not be bound by squares with holes. In addition, staying within a hole is not mandatory. Staying within the outline of the elements with the design is the goal. 

Embroidery is done on simple linen or any cloth. You can directly embroider on almost any fabric. Embroidering directly on clothing (such as denim). Any cloth can work for embroidery and allows a lot of creativity in adorning everything from linens, clothing, pillows, etc. And of course, it can also be done on linen and then framed as a separate piece.   

THREADS

FINISHING APPROACHES

There are many ways finished needlework projects can be completed for display. A great piece of finished needlework should be honored by properly completing it for display. There are essentially two different approaches to successfully finishing many options within those approaches. 

Framing is the most common way to completing a needlework project. Considerations with framing needlework include:

  • Selecting a frame that doesn't compete with the needlework but enhances it;
  • creating a series of pieces, framing them and displaying them as a collection (the needlework designs offered through the Needful Needle are all in specific series);
  • Creating a mat within the design of the piece so to enhance it within a frame; 
  • Mats not included in the finished piece (plain or with a pattern);
  • and, whether to put them under glass in a frame or not.

Unframed approaches include ways to display finished pieces in multiple ways other framing. A few approaches include:

  • Creating a patch that can be sewn on or adhered to other fabric. This works well for sturdy weight clothing such as jeans, jackets, hats, backpacks and more (see our FAQs for specific information on creating patches from finished needlework pieces);
  • Direct stitching onto linens and lightweight fabrics(best suited to embroidery, refer to our FAQs for more specifics);
  • Appliquéing without adhesion but as a piece to bind directly to another piece of fabric (like a quilting technique);
  • Creating an insert for boxes, tins, or other containers;
  • Adding to upholstery or as upholstery such as: footrests, chair backs and pillows;
  • Creating sculptural pieces with multiple sides such as cubes, boxes, etc...
  • Creating bookmarks
  • Creating bell pulls and hangable tapestries backed by fabric, leather, felt or other materials.

These are just few options for finishing a completed piece. Let the imagination flow in creating your work of art. From straightforward pieces to unique and unconventional approaches. The options are unlimited. Get curious and explore!